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Residential FAQ
I want to make sure
my water is safe, what tests should I request?
I
think there's something wrong with my water, what tests should I
request?
I'm
buying or building a house, what do I need to know?
I am
concerned about radon, what do I need to know?
I am
concerned about my septic system, what do I need to know?
I am
concerned about lead, what do I need to know?
I
have my test results, now what do they mean?
How do I chlorinate my well?
How do I collect
a water sample properly?
I want to make sure my water
is safe, what tests should I request?
I just generally
would like to make sure there are no contaminants in my water.
Where's a good place to start?
A good starting point
would be to test for Nitrates, Nitrites, Turbidity, and Bacteria.
You may also want to test for Hardness.
I am pregnant, or
have small children. Is there anything I need to make sure I test
my water for?
Yes. Test for nitrates because elevated nitrate levels usually do
not cause a problem for healthy adults, but can interfere with the
transport of oxygen in the blood of small infants or unborn
children, which can lead to a condition called methemoglobenia (blue
baby syndrome). Also test for lead, because infants are most
susceptible to lead toxicity, and test for bacteria because again,
infants are more susceptible to infection by bacteria because they
do not yet have fully developed immune systems.
I think there’s something
wrong with my water, what tests should I have done?
What could be wrong with my water if…..
-....my water smells like sulfur, or rotten eggs?
If you notice this smell in your water, it probably contains
hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas. Reasons for this may include:
-
Decay of organic
matter or reactions with minerals present in soil and rock that
contain sulfur.
-
Sulfate-reducing
bacteria which can convert naturally occurring sulfate into
hydrogen sulfide gas
-
Water heaters, which
provide a warm environment for sulfate-reducing bacteria to
live. The water heater also contains an annode which
supplies electrons that can sustain the reaction of sulfate to
hydrogen sulfide gas.
Should I worry about
hydrogen sulfide gas or sulfur-reducing bacteria?
Sulfur-reducing bacteria not only produce hydrogen sulfide gas,
but they also generate slime that can provide a good environment for
other bacteria to grow in addition to clogging pipes in your
plumbing system.
Hydrogen sulfide gas may cause black spots
on silverware and
plumbing fixtures and can corrode pipes.
How do I figure
out where the hydrogen sulfide gas is coming from?
First
run just the cold water, and note whether or not you notice the
smell. Then run the hot water and smell the water again.
If you have any water treatment systems, such as a water softener,
make sure to smell the water with the treatment system on and also
with it disconnected.
-
If you notice the
smell only when the hot water is running, the problem is
probably your water heater.
-
If you notice the
smell in both the hot and cold water, but only when the water
softener is on, you may have sulfur-reducing bacteria in your
treatment system.
-
If you notice the
smell in both the hot and cold water but the smell diminishes
the longer you run the water, you may have sulfur-reducing
bacteria in your well or plumbing.
-
If you notice the
smell in both the hot and cold water and the smell does not
diminish as the water runs, you may have hydrogen sulfide gas in
your well or ground water.
What can I do to
get rid of hydrogen sulfide gas?
-
If the source has
been determined to be your water heater, remove or replace the
magnesium annode, then disinfect and flush the water heater with
a bleach solution. Increase the water temperature to 160 degrees
farenheit for several hours to kill the bacteria, then flush the
heater. If you do not feel confident with heater
maintenance, contact a water heater dealer or a plumber to
perform this service.
-
If the source has
been determined to be sulfur-reducing bacteria in the well or
plumbing, disinfect the well. For instructions on how to
disinfect your well by chlorination, see
My water has bacteria in it, how do I go about chlorinating my
well?
-
If the source has
been determined to be sulfur-reducing bacteria in the water
softener or treatment unit, contact the manufacturer for
instructions on how to disinfect the unit.
-
If the source has
been determined to be hydrogen sulfide in the ground water, you
may use activated carbon filters for hydrogen sulfide
concentrations of less than 1 milligram per liter (mg/L).
If your levels are higher than 1 mg/L but lower than 6 mg/L, you
will need to use manganese greensand filters. If your
levels are higher than 6 mg/L you will need to install an
oxidation filtration system.
If your water smells like rotten eggs, you should test for bacteria,
sulfide and sulfates.
-....my water is cloudy?
If the problem is worse after rain, it is probably sediment and
indicates an intrusion of surface water into the well. A sudden
appearance of cloudiness may indicate the collapse of the well wall.
If your water is cloudy, you should test for
-....my water produces brown stains?
Brown stains usually indicate the presence of iron or manganese in
the water.
If your water produces brown stains, you should test for metals.
-....my sinks have blue/green stains in them?
Blue/green stains indicate that acidic/corrosive water is passing
through copper pipes and dissolving copper from the pipes and
redepositing it as copper sulfate on the plumbing fixtures. This
problem should be addressed, because pinpoint leaks can eventually
develop in the system as a result of this leaching process. It also
increases the possibility of leaching lead from any lead solder
joints or lead-containing fixtures. The problem can be fixed with an
acid neutralizer.
If you have blue/green stains in your sinks, test for acidity and
pH.
-....my
water has an iridescent film floating on top of it?
An iridescent film (a thin, colorful sheen) floating on top
of water can mean one of several things. The first thing most people
would assume is that the film is caused by oil or other petroleum
products in the water, which may very well be, but that isn’t always
the case. When certain iron-containing minerals (for example
hematite or limonite) are present in water that has a lot of organic
matter in it, the minerals dissolve. However when the dissolved
minerals come into contact with air at the surface of the water,
they can react (oxidize) and mix with un-dissolved iron ions to form
the sheen you see on the water. Iron oxide films are naturally
occurring and generally do not indicate a problem, however the
presence of an oil sheen on the water can indicate a leaking
underground storage tank, or some other source of contamination that
could be affecting other water sources in the area. One way to tell
the difference is to take a stick and stir up the water. If the film
breaks into pieces, then it is most likely an iron oxide film. If
the film merely swirls around but remains intact, then the film is
most likely caused by oil.
Fredericktowne Labs can perform iron, manganese, and TPH DRO and GRO
(Total Petroleum Hydrocarbons, Diesel Range Organics and Gasoline
Range Organics) tests to help you figure out what is causing the
film and advise you of what steps to take once you have your
results.
I think I might have gasoline or fuel in my water. How did it
get there, and what should I test for?
Over the past fifty years, many buried gasoline tanks have been
abandoned or not properly monitored and are now leaking gasoline
into the environment. Unfortunately, once gasoline or fuel oil is
lost from the tank into the environment it can travel through the
ground for long distances and can cause well water problems for many
years. It is very important that underground tanks not be abandoned
with product in them since they will invariably corrode through and
contaminate wells.
For suspected gasoline contamination, you should test for BTEX which
stands for Benzene, Toluene, Ethylbenzene, and Xylene. These
compounds are major components of gasoline.
Other compounds recommended for testing in addition to BTEX are MTBE
and Napthalene. MTBE stands for Methyl tertiary butyl ether. This
compound is a gasoline additive (octane enhancer). Napthalene is a
component present in fuel oil and is used to differentiate between
gasoline and fuel oil contamination problems.
If you feel that your water supply is being contaminated by a
leaking underground storage tank, you may want to contact the
Maryland Department of the Environment, Leaking Underground Storage
Tank Division, 1-800-633-6101, Ext. 3442.
I’m buying or building a
house, what do I need to know?
When should I test my well?
Test any new well that has just been drilled. After the contractor
chlorinates the well and pumps the chlorine clear, allow the well to
return to normal conditions for about a week. Then contact a lab for
testing. Test your water before it is used for drinking.
Also test the well before you purchase a property, and test annually
after that. The well may be clean now, but not necessarily forever.
For what should I test?
Test for total and fecal coliform bacteria, and for nitrates.
For more information on
wells and well construction, please see our tipsheet on
wells.
I am concerned about radon,
what do I need to know?
What is Radon?
Radon is a naturally occurring gas produced by the breakdown of
uranium in soil, rock and water. It is the decay products of radon,
called “radon daughters” that cause the hazards attributed to radon.
These “daughters” are atoms of heavy metals and readily attach
themselves to whatever they contact.
Can I see, taste, or smell radon?
NO. That is why people have a tendency to feel that their home is
safe.
Is radon harmful?
The surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading
cause of lung cancer in the United States; only smoking causes more
lung cancer deaths.
How does radon
enter the home?
Air pressure inside the home is usually lower than pressure in the
soil around the home’s foundation. Because of this, your house acts
like a vacuum, drawing radon in through foundation cracks and other
openings.
Who should test for radon?
Everybody. Everyone is susceptible to lung damage by radon,
and there is no way of knowing whether or not you have a problem
unless you test.
How is radon
measured?
It is measured in picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L). Short term or
canister method tests measure radon levels over a period fo 2-4
days. Long term tests such as Alpha Track measure an average value
for a period of 2 months to a year. Continuous methods give hourly
radon readings which are then usually averaged. Fredericktowne Labs
is listed by the EPA as an approved laboratory for performing these
tests.
What level of radon is considered “safe”?
The EPA’s goal is that the indoor radon level be no more than the
outdoor level, which is about 0.4 pCi/L; however, levels below 4.0
pCi/L are considered acceptable.
Should I take steps to repair my home if it tests higher than
4.0 pCi/L?
The EPA recommends fixing your home if the results of one long-term
test or two short-term tests taken in the lowest lived-in-level of
the home show radon levels of 4.0 pCi/L or higher. If you choose to
do two short term measurements, it is advised that you perform the
test during different seasons of the year.
If radon is found
in my air, should I test my water?
It is a good idea to
test your water as well if your radon in air test comes back with a
level above the MCL. Radon comes from the ground, as does your
water, and corrective actions taken to reduce the amount of radon in
your air will not help reduce the amount of radon in your water.
I am concerned about my septic system,
what do I need to know?
What is the current minimum requirement for septic
inspections?
According to Maryland law, a septic inspection must include:
1. A file search of governmental records to determine if the system
was put in under permit, if there have been any modifications or
repairs to the system, or if any problems with the system have been
documented.
2. An owner/tenant interview to find out and document what the
residents know about
the system and what their experience with the system has been (e.g.,
Is the system currently in use or, if not, how long has the
residence been vacant? How many people are using it? Have they had
any problems? Have they had the system pumped? Have they had any
repairs performed? Were they done under permit?)
3. An onsite field inspection of the system to include introducing
water and fluorescent dye into the system, opening the tank, pumping
out the contents, examining the tank for design, contents (scum,
sludge, depth, etc.), integrity, and presence of baffles. The
drainfield is evaluated for its ability to accept effluent properly
(i.e., does not cause the tank to overfill and does not outbreak to
the surface of the ground).
4. Preparation of a report of findings that discusses and documents
all of the above.
Is a full inspection always necessary?
Some inspectors will perform a traditional visual or dye test if the
buyer is willing to sign a paper stating that they understand the
limitations of the test they have requested. This can make sense
when the property has an old antiquated system and the buyers
recognize that they will probably have to put in a new system and do
not want to pay to hear what they already know. It can also make
sense if the property is brand new with a new system that has just
been installed under permit. In all other cases, it is highly
recommended that the MDE protocol be followed.
Why are septic inspections more expensive and involved than
they used to be?
For many years the standard septic inspection that was performed for
real estate transfer purposes consisted of a “visual” inspection of
the ground surrounding a residence. Water was sometimes introduced
into the system, sometimes not, and the inspector walked around the
yard looking for any indications of “septic outbreak” such as
unexplained wet spots, or telltale odor. If water from the house was
introduced into the septic tank, sometimes a fluorescent dye was
introduced at the same time, and the inspection was then called a
“septic dye test”. Due to some large law suits and other pressure
the Maryland Legislature in 1999 passed a Law: 9-217.1 that states
“After July 1, 1999, every person engaged in the business of
inspecting an on-site sewage disposal system for a transfer of
property must certify to the Maryland Department of the Environment
(MDE) that the person has completed a course of instruction,
approved by the Department, in the proper inspection of on-site
sewage disposal systems” This means that anyone who has not taken an
approved course can not legally perform a septic inspection for real
estate transfer purposes. The material presented in the course
outlines very specifically what MDE considers to be the proper
approach to conducting a septic inspection.
The type of inspection now required is much more time consuming and
costly to perform than the traditional inspection done in the past.
Many people are resistant to the idea of performing such a complex
and costly inspection, however, the existence of the Maryland law
makes it difficult to rationalize doing anything less. Should a
problem arise with the system after the property transfers hands,
the buyers would be within their right to question why an inspection
that did not meet MDE recommendations had been performed when, by
law, the inspector had been instructed in the “proper” inspection of
septic systems. Should the problem result in a lawsuit, the
inspector, the seller, and the real estate agent would all be
vulnerable during litigation.
When should more than that be done?
If you have reason to believe that something is wrong with your
septic tank, it might be worth your while to have the septic
inspector open up and check your distribution box in addition to the
typical inspection.
For a diagram of a
septic system and more info on maintaining a septic system, please
see our
septic tipsheet.
Is it really necessary to pump the tank?
In most cases, yes, it
is always a good idea to pump the tank. A septic tank should
be pumped every 4 years. Cases in which it is probably not
necessary to pump a septic tank are:
-
If you are
purchasing a property on which you know there is a very old
septic system but you do not plan to use this septic system, you
will probably just want to have the required inspection.
-
If you have just
built or are purchasing a new house and you know the septic tank
has barely been used yet, then it is not necessary to pump the
tank during the inspection.
I am
concerned about lead, what do I need to know?
How great a threat
is lead poisoning in the United States?
According to public
health officials, lead is the number one environmental threat to
children, whether they live in public housing or suburban homes.
What is the most
prevalent source of lead?
A Newsweek article dated
July 15, 1991 cites these statistics:
"74% of all private
housing built before 1980 contains some lead paint."
"3 million tons of old
lead line the walls and fixtures of 57 million American homes."
How does lead
poisoning affect children?
Even small doses of lead
can slow development and make children less intelligent.
Children with high lead levels are six times more likely to have
reading disabilities and more likely to be considered hyperactive or
aggressively antisocial. Some studies have linked low-level
exposure to hearing loss, slower reaction time, reduced
attentiveness, delays in the age at which children first walk and
problems with balance.
How does lead
enter a child's body?
Peeling and flaking
paint are often ingested by children who chew on painted furniture.
Fine paint dust stirred up by sanding or vacuuming during renovation
may be inhaled or ingested by the child. Friction from opening
and closing windows can turn lead-based paint into lead dust which
can then be ingested.
What treatment is
available for lead poisoning?
A treatment called
"chelation" uses injections to cleanse the blood of some lead.
This treatment is very painful.
Why is lead so
toxic?
The body mistakes lead
for calcium. The lead attaches to and disrupts enzymes
essential to the functioning of the bran and other cells.
Because it is an element, it never decomposes into another, more
easily tolerated substance. While it can be removed from the
bloodstream through chelation, most of the lead that is absorbed
into a child's brain sits there literally forever.
What steps have
been taken to deal with lead in paint?
Paint manufacturers
removed much of the lead from paint in the 1950's, but most of the
paint remains in the same houses that got coats of this paint 40 or
more years ago.
What precautions
can I take to avoid exposure to lead in paint?
1. Before buying a house
built before 1950, test for lead in paint.
2. During renovations:
If you have lead-based paint, the safest approach is to send
children elsewhere until work has been completed and the house has
been thoroughly cleaned.
3. Hazards can be
significantly reduced by replacing doors, windows and frames or by
putting up wallpaper or paneling.
When should I test
for lead in water?
Lead gets into drinking
water by being leached out of the plumbing lines that the water
travels through. The water supplied by a community water
supplier or by a private well seldom, if ever, contains lead.
It is the water supply lines that can introduce lead into your
drinking water. You should be concerned about the possibility
that your water may contain lead if:
-
Your home or water
system has lead pipes
-
Your home has copper
pipes with lead solder joints, and you have acidic and/or very
soft water.
-
You have faucets or
pump fittings made of brass.
-
You have water pipes
that were manufactured prior to the 1930's
-
The home is less
than five years old (pipes build up a protective coating over
time).
Can lead in water
raise blood lead levels?
Yes. The EPA estimates
that lead in water causes 10-20% of overall childhood lead exposure.
Young children and unborn babies are the most likely to be adversely
affected.
Who should test my
water for lead?
Any EPA-certified
laboratory. Fredericktowne Labs is certified and equipped to
test your water for lead. It is important that the sample
tested is a "first draw" sample, which means it was taken after the
water had been sitting for six to eighteen hours in the pipes,
without any water being used in the house. For more
information on the first draw sampling technique and instructions on
how to collect a lead sample, see
Proper collection of a water sample for lead and copper analysis.
What is considered
a safe lead level?
The EPA considers water
acceptable for drinking if it has less than 15 parts per billion
(ppb) of lead, although some doctors and advocacy groups call for
levels of less than 10 ppb.
What can I do if
my water has an unacceptable lead level?
-
Reduce risk by
running the faucet for a minute before using water.
-
When washing or
cooking vegetables, use cold water which is less likely to pick
up lead from pipes.
-
Consider installing
an acid neutralizer if your water is too acidic.
-
Try to locate and
have replaced any offending parts of the plumbing system.
-
If you have a water
softener, consider getting rid of it. A water softener can
make matters worse since it will increase the corrosivity of the
water
-
If all else fails,
consider installing a filtering system that has been
demonstrated to be effective at removing lead. Check
product information carefully.
Are there any
types of containers that may contain lead?
Don't store liquids that
will be consumed in lead crystal. If you wish to serve liquids
from a lead crystal container, fill the container immediately before
serving, and remove the liquid from the container afterward.
Also, be cautious about older glazed pottery, particularly pieces
that were made in a foreign country.
I have my test results, now what do
they mean?
What do these abbreviations mean?
MCL stands for “Maximum Contaminant Level”. It is the highest
level of a contaminant that is allowed in drinking water by the
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). It can be thought
of as the level at which you might want to start thinking about
taking some corrective actions with your water, because it could
possibly affect elderly people, very young children, and people with
compromised immune systems.
mg/L stands for
milligrams per liter and is nearly synonymous with parts per million
ug/L
stands for micrograms per liter and is nearly synonymous with pars
per billion
< stands for
"less than" and indicates that the component in question was not
detected (i.e. was less than the detection limit)
Ntu stands for
"Nephelometric Turbidity Units" and is a measure of how cloudy a
sample of water is.
ppm stands for
parts per million
ppb stands for
parts per billion
C.U. stands for
color units. It is a unit of measure that denotes how much
color is present in a sample.
What does it mean if my well tests positive for nitrates?
Nitrates indicate sewage or fertilizer pollution.
My results say: “Bacteriological analysis of this sample
indicates that the water is unsafe for human consumption….”
What does that really mean, and what should I do about it?
A failing bacteria test means that Coliform bacteria have been
detected in the water. EPA has designated Coliform bacteria as the
indicator organism for safe drinking water. What this means is that
Coliform bacteria are pretty hardy bacteria, so if no Coliforms are
found in the water, that implies that no other types of bacteria can
survive in the water either. There are many pathogenic organisms
(such as diphtheria, cholera, or polio) that could be present in
contaminated water, but it would be difficult and costly to test for
each one separately. Instead, environmental health labs test for
coliform bacteria. If no coliform are found, the water has no other
bacteria in it. If coliform bacteria are detected, then chances are
good that there are other harmful bacteria present in the water.
Unfortunately, about 25% of the wells in Frederick County are
contaminated with Coliform bacteria.
What causes a well to be contaminated?
The presence of Coliform bacteria in well water is frequently
unsuspected because in and of themselves they seldom cause any
noticeable health problems for the people who are accustomed to
drinking the water. However, Coliform bacteria do not normally exist
in well water that comes from a reasonably deep well (greater than
100 ft. deep). They require oxygen and organic matter (plant matter)
to grow and therefore, while present all over the surface of the
earth, do not normally exist in deep wells – no oxygen, no organic
matter. Their presence in well water means that either the well is
very shallow or something has happened / is happening that allows
the well to be contaminated.
Any newly drilled well will be contaminated with Coliforms because
the drilling process drags dirt down into the well. If a well is
worked on (e.g. the well pump is replaced), the well will be
contaminated with coliforms because the pump and the supply line
will have been in contact with the ground before being inserted back
into the well. If someone removes the well cap and throws a clod of
dirt into the well, the well will be contaminated.
What should I do about it?
All of the possible causes of contamination discussed above are
one-time events and the usual response is to chlorinate the well by
introducing Clorox or some other source of chlorine into the well.
Chlorine is a very effective disinfectant and it will readily kill
any bacteria that are present. (For instructions on how to
chlorinate your well, see
My water has bacteria in it, how do I go
about chlorinating my well?)
Things become a little grayer when we encounter a well that is
contaminated with coliforms but we don’t know why. Frequently, the
answer is that there exists a well construction flaw that is
permitting surface water to intrude into the well and contaminate
the water, which would otherwise be pure. Well construction problems
that can permit this to happen include:
-
Channeling down
through the grouting (grout is the cement-like material that
fills the space between the bore hole and the casing);
-
Casing which does
not extend far enough down into the ground;
-
A crack in the
casing;
-
Buried well cap
(frequently not water-tight);
-
A flaw or leak in
the pitless adapter (the compression fitting on the side of the
casing just below the frost line that permits the water line to
go from the inside of the casing to the outside of the casing).
For a diagram of a well
with descriptions of the different parts, please see our tip sheet
on
Wells).
In cases like these, all the Clorox in the world will not fix the
problem, except maybe temporarily. If possible, it is best to fix
the well construction problem, chlorinate the well and test again.
If the problem cannot be found or cannot be fixed, then the best
solution is to install a permanent disinfection device such as an
Ultraviolet (UV) light or a chlorinator. Either one is very
effective at killing any bacteria that might be present. Most people
prefer the UV light since it introduces nothing foreign into the
water – the taste and odor of the water remain unchanged but the
bacteria are killed. A chlorinator will, of course, result in water
that tastes and smells of chlorine, like city water.
My water has bacteria in it and I was advised to chlorinate my
well. How do I go about doing that?
The Frederick County Health Department supplies the following
procedure for chlorinating a newly drilled well or a contaminated
well:
1. Before treatment, turn off the pump breaker at the electric panel
box before removing
the well cap to eliminate shock hazard.
2. Remove well cap and electric wires from top of well. Make sure
wire connectors are
tight. Protect wire connectors with a plastic bag.
3. Attach a garden hose to an outside faucet and place it into the
top of the well casing.
For each 150 feet of well depth, add 10 oz. of Powder Shock which
contains
approximately 65% chlorine. Powder Shock can be purchased at most
area pool
retail stores. This powder should be added to 1 gallon of water,
mixed and poured
directly into well. Turn pump breaker on and circulate water from
outside faucet into
well. After chlorine smell is detected coming from the hose allow
water to circulate into well for at least one hour. (Caution: This procedure may cause
the water to
become cloudy; however, it will clear up after the chlorine is run
off.) Turn breaker
off and replace wires into top of well casing. Replace and tighten
well cap.
4. Turn pump breaker on again and go into the house and circulate
the chlorinated
water through every fixture. (This includes toilets, sinks and
washing machines).
This should be done for at least three minutes at each site.
5. Allow the chlorinated water in the water distribution system to
sit undisturbed for a
period of 12-24 hours. Run the chlorinated water from the
distribution system
through an outside hose avoiding the well and septic areas, as well
as natural
streams. Run the water for one half hour, then turn water off for an
hour. Repeat
this process until chlorine cannot be detected.
6. If your well is a low-yielding well, or you are chlorinating
during a drought season,
you should avoid rushing the chlorine out of the system.
How do I collect
a water sample properly?
Proper collection
of a water sample for bacterial analysis
1. Select a glass or
plastic container that will hold at least 1 (one) pint. You
may also stop by the lab and we will provide you with a
pre-sterilized bottle to collect your sample in.
2. Boil the jar and lid
for 10 (ten) minutes or run them through the dishwasher.
3. Select an appropriate
sampling point. The faucet you select should not have a swivel
or a mixing control (i.e. it should have one knob for cold water and
a separate knob for hot water). Remove the strainer at the end
of the faucet if there is one. Good sampling points are
frequently in the bathroom sink or tub. An outside faucet is
also fine if it is clear of contamination by dirt. The kitchen
faucet is usually considered a poor sampling point. Do not
sample through a hose or a frost-free hydrant.
4. Let the cold
water run for 5 (five) minutes before collecting the sample.
5. Let the water run
into the sterilized container without touching the faucet to the
container. Immediately put the lid onto the container.
6. Keep the sample cold
(refrigerate or use a cooler) and bring it to the laboratory the
same day it is drawn. Analysis must begin at the lab within 24
(twenty-four) hours after sample collection for the test to be
valid.
Proper collection of a water sample for lead and copper analysis
1. Drinking water that
is to be analyzed for lead and copper should be collected using the
"first-draw" technique described in #2 below.
2. Water should be used
the day prior to collection, but then be allowed to sit in the
plumbing lines for six to eighteen hours. Collection is
performed on the FIRST water drawn from the cold water tap
after the six to eighteen hour period has passed. For most
people, collection is most easily accomplished first thing in the
morning prior to ANY use of water. This includes the
flushing of toilets, etc.
3. Size of sample-one
liter or a quart container. The container need not be
sterilized.
4. Samples do not need
to be refrigerated. The sample must arrive at the lab within
14 days of collection.
Proper collection
of water for nitrates analysis
1. Fill a clean glass or
plastic container with cold water. The container should hold
at least a pint, and it need not be sterilized.
2. Refrigerate the
sample until it is transported to the laboratory.
3. Analysis of the
sample must begin at the laboratory within 48 hours of collection.
"Ensuring public health and safety is
a process. Fredericktowne Labs Inc. is proud to make an
important contribution to that process."
-Dr. M. L. Miller, Laboratory Director
Comprehensive Analytical Testing Services
Certified in Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia
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